I don't wear knee highs, usually, but I recently got a book about the twisted-stitch knitting of Austria and have been drooling over the stockings! So, in time for Christmas, I've knit up a pair of red wool stockings for myself...and here are my learnings from this fairly epic project.
Twisted stitch knitting is basically tiny cables, with all knit stitches knit through the back loop. It's meant to be done at a tight gauge and is therefore tough on the hands and time-consuming. The results are pretty spectacular, though!
The wool I used (Garnstudio DROPS Fabel) is on the thicker, woolier side for this type of knitting. I wouldn't really recommend it but it was what I had in my stash (you need at least 150-175g for a pair of stockings like this, best to have 200g on hand). I would actually recommend a yarn more like Lang's Jawoll Superwash, Regia 4-ply, or similar; these brands have no halo. I used red, but don't go darker or you won't see the patterning very well. Light grey, white, beige, etc are best. Stay away from black, brown, blues, or greens. And of course, do not use anything that's patterned; I think even marled or "kettle dyed" yarns not be good choices.
Use thin needles. The stitch counts on these socks are very high. I used 2mm needles and the boy's stocking pattern and settled on 80 sts circumference for the socks (normally with this yarn I would use 64 sts). The patterns in the book have even higher stitch counts, so I would need thinner yarn and smaller needles! Be prepared to adjust your design...luckily the book has tons of patterns to choose from!
I knit toe-up and 2AAT. This allows me to adjust the pattern/sizing "on the fly" and ensures I wind up with 2 identical socks. I started with my usual 64-stitch toe and when starting the pattern on the top of the foot I increased from 32 sts to 40 on the front (leaving 32 on the sole) and followed the patterns for the boy's stocking in the book.
I recommend using a heel design with a generous gusset, so not a short-row or fore/afterthought heel. I used the fleegle heel, but more traditional flap would also work. The gusset prevents any distortion of the patterns over your instep, and with all those cables the socks are going to be a lot less stretchy. In fact, if you are picking your own stitch patterns, try to use some non-cable patterns (like fagotting, or a simple K1 P1 K1 band) as a separator. This is what the book's patterns show. These will add a little stretch.
When done the heel, I had to adjust the pattern; I ended up using 80 stitches in circumference, which is more than the boy's stockings detailed in the book call for. I just substituted a slightly wider pattern for one of the designs to get the count I wanted. Then it was a straight shot to the calf gusset!
I have very, very large calves from years of cycling. So I knew the boy's calf gusset was not going to work for me: I picked one of the men's patterns. And I could've gone even bigger by modifying the design! I started the gusset about 14cm up from the heel (ie. where I started the patterning on the back of the leg), but this will depend on your legs. Put in lots of lifelines so if you have to rip back you will have an easier time of it! I didn't really follow the instructions in the book to the letter, but generally kept increasing 2 sts every 3 rows or so. Again, the rate of increase will depend on how big your calves are.
At the top of the gusset, I decreased about 20 sts - so not all the stitches I put in for the gusset. Fit the stockings to see what works for you. Before starting the ribbing at the top of the sock (just below the knee), I put in a lifeline and took them off the needles for a blocking and a fitting. The yarn relaxed and the socks grew a bit!I left the lifelines in and then knit the cuffs: 12 rows of K1P1, then a row of K2tog YO, then another 12 rows of K1P1. Then another lifeline before taking the needle out. Then it was time for the casing and the elastic. The cuff folds over nicely thanks to the YO holes and the lifelines really help with alignment when stitching the casing down. Keep stretching the top of the sock when stitching, to keep the cuff from getting too tight! I threaded in a piece of 1" wide elastic to keep my socks up.
The results are pretty spectacular and nice and warm.
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